Nozawa Onsen, a charming ski village nestled in the Japanese Alps, has become one of my favourite destinations over the years. I’ve stayed here four times, first with our boys and hubby, then with my 80-year-old Papa and his non-skiing girlfriend, and most recently on a solo 5-night stay. Every time I return, there’s a new spot to explore. If you seek a ski escape that combines traditional Japanese charm with modern amenities, Nozawa Onsen is the perfect choice. As a solo female traveller it is superb.
The journey to Nozawa Onsen is straightforward and effortless. From Tokyo, take the Shinkansen from Tokyo Station to Iiyama Station (around 2.5 hours). From there, it’s a 15-20 minute taxi ride to the village. I recommend booking a transfer through your accommodation, and don’t forget to bring cash, as many local taxis and shops do not accept credit cards. The convenience of the journey leaves you with more time to focus on what matters – skiing, soaking in the onsens, and taking in the mountain views.
Nozawa Onsen is super for intermediate skiers – its terrain isn’t enormous. Still, it’s perfect for those looking to enjoy a few days of skiing, and lifts comprising gondolas and chairlifts, it’s easy to get around and enjoy the mountain at your own pace.
During my last visit I hired a Private Instructor – as experience a skier and as familiar with the resort as I am, it still afforded the opportunity to explore new terrain and brush up on my technique.
Where to Stay
For a truly authentic experience, I recommend staying at Ryokan Sakaya, a traditional Japanese inn just a short walk from the lifts. It’s an older style ryokan but full of charm, and the location is unbeatable.
For a more contemporary option, the newer Shiro Nozawa newly renovated from an old style Japanese ryokan, no expense has been spared to create the perfect luxury fusion of east meets west. Shiro is perfectly located in the oldest and most picturesque street in the village.
Onsen: A Warm, Soothing Tradition
Nozawa Onsen’s hot springs are what make the village so special. With over 30 different onsens, including 13 public baths, the village is a haven for relaxation. These baths, free of charge, are part of the village’s charm, and each one has its own unique characteristics. The foot baths scattered around the village are especially popular among skiers, offering a chance to soothe tired feet after a day on the slopes.
Food is a key part of any trip, and Nozawa Onsen delivers in spades. The village has a wonderful mix of local eateries, offering everything from traditional Japanese fare to more modern, international options.
If you’re craving something lighter, stop by Cafe Nappa. Tucked away on a quiet street, this quirky retro café serves up fantastic coffee and homemade lunch options. It’s a cosy retreat for a peaceful afternoon.
Nozawa Onsen is a village explored on foot. Wander through its cobblestone streets, past the foot baths, and you’ll discover an array of shops selling traditional goods and souvenirs. The local markets often have fresh produce, and there are a few vintage kimono shops, Japanese stationery, and handmade crafts to explore.
One of my favourite discoveries is the Nozawa Onsen Distillery, which has recently earned praise for its high-quality gin made from locally sourced botanicals.
For those looking to unwind even further, check out Spiritual Pretzel Yoga, a local yoga studio offering classes for a gentle stretch after skiing or a mindfulness session, this is the perfect place to reconnect with yourself.
If you’re in Nozawa for more than a few days, I highly recommend taking a day trip to Kanazawa, a beautiful city about 2.5 hours from Nozawa by train. Kanazawa is known for its well-preserved samurai and geisha districts, as well as the stunning Kenroku-en Garden, which is one of the most famous gardens in Japan.
Another highlight is the Kanazawa Castle, where you can wander through the extensive grounds and learn about the history of the region. If you have time, also visit Omicho Market for fresh seafood and local specialties.
For something truly unique, consider visiting the Jigokudani Monkey Park, home to the famous snow monkeys. These wild monkeys relax in the hot springs in the winter, making it a perfect stop during your trip. The park is located near the town of Yudanaka, about 1.5 hours from Nozawa, and offers a fascinating glimpse into the wild side of Japan.
If you’re lucky enough to visit during January, you can experience Nozawa Onsen’s famous Fire Festival (Dosojin Matsuri), one of the largest fire festivals in Japan. Held on January 15th, the festival celebrates the village’s history and the protection of its community. The event features torch-bearing locals, large bonfires, and a true sense of the village’s spirit. It’s a magical experience and one of the highlights of the ski season.
Luggage Transfer:
I always use Black Cat Luggage Transfer for seamless luggage forwarding. This service is a lifesaver, especially when travelling between cities or to ski resorts. It allows you to travel without the hassle of heavy bags, making it easy to enjoy your trip to Nozawa without worrying about your luggage.
BOOK:
Nozawa Holidays is a highly recommended ‘one stop business’ for booking lessons, accommodatio, transfers, tours and ski hire.
Final Thoughts
Nozawa Onsen offers a unique, authentic ski experience with a rich cultural backdrop. Whether you’re here for the skiing, the onsens, or the food, the village has something for everyone. If you’re looking for a winter escape that combines adventure with relaxation, Nozawa Onsen should be at the top of your list. And for those looking to go beyond the slopes, the side trips to Kanazawa and the snow monkeys offer a perfect balance to your holiday.
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